Tuesday, February 27, 2007

bouldering vs. soloing

It's easy to blur the lines between the two at The Aerials.

July 9, 2005: David Ludders on Inquiries From Within, Mount Evans Wilderness Area, CO. The crux on this Cameron Cross "problem" is up high and goes on for a few moves. I found it terrifying, yet I was neither climbing nor spotting. The 14 crashpads strewn about the bouldery landing would have done little in the event of a fall from up high. Proud repeat, but not too sure this problem will be done all that many more times. There are few other problems at the Aerials that are equally committing. Anyway, bring brass balls when you hike into the Aerials and have large lungs ready for the hike out.

Monday, February 26, 2007

project mode 2

Sometimes you run outta time for the FA.

February 18, 2007: Seth Allred on the project coming left out of Pig Dog (which later was named The Infinite), East Draw, Eldorado Canyon State Park, CO. In these photos, Seth is trying to work out the crux and coming up maybe an inch or two short. A week later, Paul Robinson returned to polish it off. Armed with beta about the problem from Paul, Seth and Chad joined us up there for some weekend sessioning on dry rock as everything else was still drying out after a very snowy winter. Lots of tempting but small candidate holds in the crux make this an obvious line to try, as it begins on the steep and excellent Pig Dog, then veers left out the steepest part of the wall. Good work finishing this line Paul!

morning disclaimers

When someone starts the day with several performance disclaimers ... they may send everything.

February 18, 2007: Ashley Overton on Hooey's Back Porch, East Draw, Eldorado Canyon State Park, CO. During our morning phone conversation, Ashley started out with "I don't know man, I haven't been feeling very well. I'd like to come out but I don't think I'm going to climb very well. Maybe I'll just hike up there to get the tour and see the place. It'll be good to just get outside, considering the way I feel." After warming up on the outstanding Crimpy Face and the steep and fun Pig Dog, Ashley settled in under Hooey's Back Porch, giving it an hour or more of his attention. Once he understood the best way to pull on and catch the holds, he sent it in outstanding style. So much for just getting outside and doing some hiking. Good work dude!

Thursday, February 22, 2007

home areas

Here we catch a rare glimpse of the old man in his natural habitat.

May 6, 2006: Ken Gibson on The Tollbooth Arete, 420's, Poudre Canyon, CO. The old man cruising classics in the Poudre - these go together like PB & J. In spite of how much time he's spent up there, it never takes much to drag the old man up into the Poudre for a session, whether it's at one of the well-travelled areas or maybe even one of the lesser known ones. As usual, he walked this problem with style while claiming to have never climbed it - ha! While a trip to the Poudre is an all-day affair for for many of us, the old man is known to cruise up there on a moments notice, float a few classics to test his fitness, maybe try 1 or 2 of the testpieces and then head home. I'm so jealous, but then again I've got Flagstaff Mountain, the Flatirons and Eldorado Canyon State Park as home areas just 15 minutes away.

Friday, February 16, 2007

never give up ...

... and - in spite of all your prior failures - an OCCASIONAL problem will come together for you late in the day.

February 10, 2007: Andy Mann on Pig Dog, East Draw, just outside Eldorado Canyon State Park. On his third day of work on Pig Dog, Andy was rewarded with a proud send late in the day after MANY hours of trying. He just wouldn't give up. I believe he pulled on this problem for 5 straight hours and finally sent it. Way to go.

to find some problems, you need a tour

... and in northern Colorado, the one you usually want to give you the tour is Bennett Scott. Thanks Tendon!

November 26, 2006: Justin Jaeger on The Toucan, Ceremonies, Red Feather Lakes, CO. Justin and I had been wondering how to find this problem for years. It was the end of the weekend and although I had already redlined it on Pinhead, I was very close to doing the crux first move. This is a problem I will have to come back to relatively fresh. Obvious and pure with a harder low start for added value. Here Justin does it in a few tries. He then proceeded to send the low start within a few goes. Nice "jorb" dude!