off to Red Rocks to see ...

the other blog is like my mistress

333 problems now up ... ~420 to go.

http://www.flagstaffmountainbouldering.blogspot.com/

it's official: I'm a crusty old chuffer

40 years young and proud owner of a new TOY.

Thanks for coming over to celebrate my 40th trip around Soleil, otherwise known as our Sun. I suspected Jen might be up to something, but nothing anyone did spoiled the surprise. Jen sends extra special thanks out to The Delo, Fi, Lori, Jennifire and anyone else who helped her out with the final preparations. Jen commented last night after several years of getting to know most of you guys/gals that she has finally begun to understand that part of the allure of rock climbing is the quality of the friendships you develop. She also said that - climbing aside - it is obvious that we genuinely enjoy each other's company. I suspect this is one of the reasons many of us are DRAWN to bouldering and it's social nature. Anyway, thanks for making it an awesome and very memorable birfday!!! You guys rock.

afternoons on Flag

It won't be long.

June 22, 2006 & March 5, 2006: Scott Neel & Justin Jaeger on The Face & The Rib, respectively, 3 of a Kind Wall, Flagstaff Mountain, CO. I've been finally working to get my guide to Flagstaff Mountain bouldering online a lot recently, so thought I would put a couple Flag problems up. Right next to each other, one is a well-known classic and one is a Greg Johnson nightmare done only a few times by a few folks. Both are classic examples of highball Flagstaff. If you want to check out what I've put online so far, check it out ...

www.flagstaffmountainbouldering.blogspot.com/

oft-photographed classics vol. II

37 seconds dancing in the shadows.

October 30, 2007: Ken Gibson on Short Chubby Demon, Poudre Canyon, CO. Just another Poudre classic the Old Man has on lockdown, SCD possesses impeccable granite and is considered one of the best for the grade in Colorado. If it were only taller ...

I want you ...

... to show me the way.

November 18, 2007: Matthew Karasik on the presumed FA of Smokejumper, Sinus Block, Eldorado Canyon State Park, CO. We've been eyeing this one for years, looking for traces of chalk/cleaned holds and inspecting the topout. We've also asked almost everyone we can think of. Nope. Nope! Nope. NOPE!!! Well, Matty finally and properly cleaned the topout and last Sunday we had an appointment with this problem in perfect early morning conditions. It was initially frustrating determining the sequence, as we got sidetracked away from the proper beta again and again. Thanks for showing me the way Matty. Your beta was ALMOST perfect.

Trice B2+

B3 is overrated anyway.

November 14, 2007: Jamie Emerson on Jim Holloway's Trice, Cloudshadow Wall, Flagstaff Mountain, CO. Very cool and inspiring evening and a nice way to start off your roadtrip JE!

A few thoughts: Both Jamie Emerson and Carlo Traversi topped it out last night under perfect conditions in the 4 o'clock hour. It was Carlo's 7th day on the problem and it was about Jamie's 10th. Both documented their sends with video and you can see them front and center at http://www.b3bouldering.com/ and http://www.climbingbum.blogspot.com/ right now. Impressive work was put in by P-Rob as well, who looked poised to send Trice on what I believe was his 2nd day on the problem, but just didn't quite stick the crux move amongst all the chaos going on around him. In addition, P-Rob did all but the uninspiring topout on AKR on his first try (dropping from the jug). Had you tried this before Paul, as that certainly would have been a nice flash? Both Carlo and Jamie used the high perching toe on Trice to make the crux reach to the bad crimp. For now, both rated it 8a+ (or V12 for those of you who refuse to become part of the http://www.8a.nu/ community or learn the Font System), but that's surely only under ideal conditions for folks who have spent some time learning the moves and how to properly grip the pocket, perch on the toe and snag the bad edge. Whatever the grade, it's been fun to witness a little of Colorado's history being rewritten and - from what I've been told - Jim is psyched that some folks are finding some merit in his historical testpieces. So ... there I was at Cloudshadow Wall when two people did Trice, another got close, CG rolled up with his dogs as the light was fading and Jim Holloway was on the phone to clarify the starting holds. All in all, a normal day in Boulder Colorado. Andy Mann will probably have some better pics up in the next few days at http://www.dropkneeclimbing.blogspot.com/, but I thought i would go ahead and put some of my thoughts out there.

And a couple more: Certainly not meaning to start anything, but as usual with historical lines with confusing histories about where they start, finish, climb, what's on and off, etc. ... there was a small issue as Carlo started on the LH sidepull + RH crimp next to it (as opposed to starting with your RH on the lower undercling). I just missed the send, but apparently he was late for something and had to cruise out of there in a hurry and I did not get a chance to ask him about it. The first move certainly isn't the crux, so in the end it probably doesn't matter anyway. Carlo has some interesting thoughts about his future plans up on his aforementioned blog. I do wonder if he'll come back to try Trice from the LH sidepull + RH undercling that Jim Holloway again informed us tonight he started on, or ... hell, start with a double undercling. I know we all climb for the fun of it and have our own motivations, but with a problem with a long and sorted history like Trice, I felt it was worth at least bringing up. Peace to all.

to dyno or not to dyno ...

This is not a question.

March 25, 2007: Scott Neel and Alden Short on Sir Arthur's Lunge and "Sir Arthur's Gastons", Arthur's Rock, Lory State Park, CO. Not sure which way is easier or harder, but the static version avoids the 6.5' foot dyno via a long surf move from a good but slick gaston to a thin gaston in a seam and a bit of a bump to the top. Both ways are an interesting challenge worth trying on your way up to the classics.

long time comin'

The send and the overdue photosequence.

March 25, 2007: Justin Jaeger on Childbirth, Arthur's Rock, Lory State Park, CO. I was there the first time JJ looked at and briefly tried this problem in 2002. I'm pretty sure he'd been daydreaming about Childbirth ever since. To satiate those demons, we finally got back with the appropriate number of pads, nice temps and a psyched crew this past March. Four tries later, he was standing on top of a problem that sat near the top of his ticklist for close to 5 years. Noice jorb there sockhands! Sorry for the delay in this post JJ, but believe it or not it was very hard to narrow the photosequence down to 9 shots from the 40+ I took that day. On the other hand, I'm sure there are some uber-camera snobs out there who think I posted 9 shots too many. Oh well.

3rd ascent of A.K.R.

Trice's evil twin.

November 5, 2007: Jamie Emerson on A.K.R., Flagstaff Mountain, CO. Karn ... Moon ... Emerson. That's a pretty nice list to be on 19 years after the FA. Good on ya!!! Now let's get back up there and seal the rest of the deal. More soon.

still B3 ...

... these things take time.

November 5, 2007: Jamie Emerson on Trice, Cloudshadow Wall, Flagstaff Mountain, CO. His best day yet on Trice. He gave it 8-10 tries from the start after taking 2 days off. Temps started in the lower 40's and ended in the 30's, so it was perfect. Four of his 10 tries were really good goes. On three of them, his left foot excused itself prematurely as he reached for or tried to grab the edge. The other time it stayed ... but he came up JUST short (see above photo). He's pysched. He seems really psyched. Jamie then switched it up - going left hand into the shallow pocket - and nabbed what is thought to be the 3rd ascent of Jim Karn's AKR. Established in 1988, only Ben Moon is thought to have previously repeated it, doing so during his Colorado visit in the early 1990's. AKR took Jamie all of 30 minutes and he figures V11. We all know what's next. Stay tuned.

exacting revenge ...

... so sweet.

September 9, 2007: Me on Tendon Productions, Mount Evans Wilderness Area. This problem is one of the first you will come to when approaching the Aerials. I've had to live with the memory of flaming out at the topout 3 seasons ago, mostly because I was totally throttled from from the hike in. I remember JJ and I being infinitely psyched that day. It was no different a few weeks ago when Matty K and I made an end of the season trip and I was able to put this one away. Thanks for taking the photos Matty!!!

refining beta with help

Do not doubt the value of taking weight while working things out.

November 1, 2007: Jamie Emerson (with a little assistance from Angie) on Trice, Cloud Shadow Wall, Flagstaff Mountain, CO. Shortly after Jamie utilized Angie's weight-bearing services to help him efficiently refine his beta, I watched Jamie do all the moves on Trice, a problem that has sat unrepeated for 32 years. He has 2 1/2 weeks before he leaves on a 6 month roadtrip. He looks really fit and seems really motivated to do it, so everybody look the fuck out.

"ready to send"

Sometimes you just know OR a jedi mind trick?

October 30, 2007: Mike Feinberg on Divergence, 420's Boulders, Poudre Canyon, CO. My introduction to Mike Feinberg was serendipitous. For the umpteenth time, I couldn't locate the obscure problem Green Thumb which is somewhere back near Cloudwalker. Thus, I stumbled back to Divergence trying to come up with an alternative end-of-the-day plan. At this point - and with Pinto's moral support - Mike had refined his beta and I got to witness and shoot a relatively rare ascent of Divergence, a problem that has given many a Poudre regular fits for the 6 years that have elapsed since Solutions introduced us to the problem. NOTE: a useful foothold did break shortly after the filming, at least partially explaining the infrequency. Anyway, once Mike resigned himself to crossover to the gaston undercling and gave it a couple tries, he announced something like he was "ready to send." He then graciously waited for Pinto and I to grab our respective cameras and sent. I must try this "ready to send" approach. "Worked like a charm it did (Yoda-speak)."

P.S. By the way, where the hell is Green Thumb again? Anyone?

the one that got away

Most of us have our own Canopener.

Sometime in 2002 or 2003: Justin Jaeger on Canopener, Poudre Canyon, CO. He was sooooo close, sooooo many times in 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 ... Then he decided the risk to his left knee wasn't worth it and he's pretty much left alone since. I don't blame him. After tearing my LCL in June 2006, I can't even bear to watch folks utilize heel-toe locks or outside edge rockovers. He'll be along any minute now to tell us how Canopener is his favorite problem to explodimicate in his dreams and whatnot, but secretly, deep down, he waits ... Here's to everyone rededicating themselves and finally sending their own Canopener this winter.

going exploring

One of my favorite parts of the climbing experience.

April 22, 2007: Ken Gibson on Locked and Loaded, Lost Lake, Red Feather Lakes, CO. There is something to be said about not having any specific goals or even an itinerary for the day in our hectic fast-paced lives that are seemingly always packed full of tasks and to-do lists. RFL is a great place to go exploring. There are dozens if not a hundred square miles of virgin rock in and around Red Feather Lakes worthy of exploration. Pretty much walk far enough in any direction once you are in this zone of crags and rock-covered hillsides and valleys and you will find rock worth climbing. You never know what you'll find. We did not find a ton in this zone on this day, but the rock was "choice" and is definitely worthy of further exploration.

current highball project ...

... minus the rope.

October 11, 2007: Ashley Overton on the Northwest Face of Pumpkin Rock, Flagstaff Mountain, CO. It has been awhile since I've done it, but self-belaying yourself up a line that is just too tall to work from the ground up without a ton of pads is a useful way to find out if you are up for the challenge. In my experience, self-belaying usually adds 2 V grades. Thus, a line should feel much easier once you lose the rope ... provided you are mentally ready as well. I'm not sure why I'm gravitating towards this old aid and toprope route at this time, but my approach on this ~32 to 33 foot problem is pretty straightforward:

1. Inspect and clean it

2. Become familiar with all its useful holds and features

3. Climb it on self-belay, eliminating tangential sequences/moves

4. Start bouldering the first half ... REALLY suss it out

5. Fine tune beta on self-belay until entire sequence is wired

6. Boulder it out when ready BECAUSE it will be fun OR walk away

After spending one day last week exclusively on a fixed line, I jumped on it ropeless a few times yesterday. I cruised to the 20 foot mark without any issues ... but then downclimbed. A couple of insecure moves reside in those last 12-13 feet, so I think I need to spend at least one more day on a rope locking down my beta on the upper half in order to commit and actually enjoy the experience. I will report back soon.

boni amici

That's latin for "good friends."

July 22, 2007: Matt Karasik on the presumed FA of Boni Amici, Mount Evans, CO. I began eyeing this problem on my first walk through the Switchbacks, but nobody seemed all that interested, so I never stopped. I thought this problem remained unclimbed until this past summer. I'm not sure why it didn't get more traffic, as it looks good and climbs well and starts off the social trail. A few folks might have passed on it because it looks easier than it is. Surprisingly, it has no easy moves. Anyway, Matty K liked the look of it and I was happy to show it to him and have him get the presumed FA a session before me. Good jorb dood!

POSTSCRIPT

According to Jason Tarry, Matty's presumed FA goes out to Jeremy Bisher ... name: K9 Love. This does not surprise me one bit as the line is obvious, close to other problems and the "trail" and those guys are usually pretty thorough. It did seem as if the sds (1st crux) was new, however, due to the tremendous amount of smegma and moss found residing happily on the necessary holds. I'll let you know if I hear back from the developers.

focusing your efforts with limited time

You aren't going to do many satisfying lines at an area if you don't put in a little time.

March 25, 2007: Matt Karasik warming up on Big Ball Sports Arete, Arthur's Rock, Lory State Park, CO. Arthur's is home to a nice concentration of really good problems in the V4 to V8 range. There are a few harder lines ... for example: Vice, 4 Dollar Arete and The Blue Streak all look very worthwhile, but the vast majority of the brilliant problems like Voodoo Lady, Big Ball Sports, Sir Arthur's Lunge, Godzilla, Mainstreet, Last Resort, Clutch, Enchanting Wizard of Rhythm, Syringe, Ode to Failure, Shotput, The Snake and the Skewer, what we call The Icicle, Childbirth, etc. are all close to - if not within - my price range. I've done a few of these, but over the past several years I've only managed to slog up the hill once a year and my ticklist from Arthur's evidences this. This year will hopefully be different. Those of you on my call list, expect to be lobbied hard and often for day trips to Arthur's this fall and winter.

changing seasons: a double edged sword

The temps are getting good, yet time is running short.

June 25, 2005 and August 19, 2007: Me and TJ Burchfield on a lingering project, Mount Evans Wilderness Area, CO. Summer has come and gone. The days are getting shorter. Time is precious. A lot of strong folks will visit this season. It is THAT time. You've had all summer to shed a few pounds off last winter's coat and whip yourself into alpine shape. You've spent the whole summer hiking in 3 or 4 miles at altitude to climb all day. It's time to get serious for a last few sends. The snow will be flying soon. Bring fly-paper finger tips and mad lip-turning skills for this undone gem.

not out of season ... YET

Hanging on by a thread.

September 9, 2007: Matt Karasik making his first approach to and exit from The Aerials, Mount Evans Wilderness Area, CO. The approach to The Aerials is a little longer this time of year due to the road closure. Fortunately, not much is added in terms of difficulty ... 2 additional miles of relatively flat hiking for a round trip of about 7-8 miles with ~1,500 feet of elevation regained during the exit. The weather threatened at times, but never affected the day. If your climbing experience is about more than just climbing, this place is definitely special.

slappin' slopas

So fun.

July 24, 2007: Jason Tarry on Lip Trick, Mount Evans, CO. What boulderer doesn't like campusing up to and furiously slapping their entire hand down onto a distant/not-so-distant sloper? Nobody I tell you and anyone who says so is lying. Are we all closet-masochists?

all your battery are choss

All two of the photos taken this day are in this post.

September 2, 2007: Me on Sidecar Left, Pierson Park, CO. So, there I was ... warming up on the stellar moderates The Sidecar is adorned with. I pulled the camera out, handed it to Jen and asked her to "just start snapping photos." Within 30 seconds, I heard the familiar ... vzzzzzzzrrrrrmmm. The trick with rechargeable batteries is actually remembering to charge them. Instead of having to take of bunch of photos, Jen happily returned to reading her book. Instead of trying to take get decent shots, I could commence with "sending the sidecar." More photos next time ... maybe.

moisture ... friend or enemy?

A little bit of both.

August 19, 2007: TJ Burchfield on The B Seam, Mount Evans Wilderness Area, CO. TJ was all set to flash this gem of a line UNTIL he hit a seeping often-wet spot that stopped him dead in his tracks. We frustratingly tried to dry the hold to no avail (although TJ returned a week later to find it dry and sent). Obviously, we want dry conditions and low humidity when we're out at the boulders and it's frustrating when it's not PERFECT, but next time it starts raining or snowing (or a problem is seeping), remember that without the water ... our precious little boulders would not exist. In our obsession to send, it seems we sometimes forget that water is responsible for the carving of mountains, gorges and canyons, the erosion of hillsides, the fracturing of cliffs and the release of portions of those cliffs into free-standing boulders and talus fields. And don't forget about the creation of cracks and pockets of every shape and size, the shaping, reshaping and eventual breaking of every hold and feature we use when climbing as well as the one's we don't use. Of course, now that I've given this lecture, I will be the first one to look skywards the next time it rains and scream "WHY NOW DAMNIT???!!!11!!!?"

impurities

Sometimes variations muddy the waters and other times they are nice additions/distractions.

July 16, 2006: Tony Yao, Seth Sanford and Justin Jaeger during the FA session on Rawhide, Mount Evans Wilderness Area, CO. All Dogs Go to Evans is a fairly obvious line that surfs left along the low arete on the east face of the Seurat Boulder to a jug under the roof, then continues up and left across the face to the apex of the boulder. JJ thought it would be a grand idea to add an alternate finish to ADGTE that pulled onto the slab from the jug, then cruised to the top. It sounded easy enough, but - after spending an hour or more cleaning it up - it turned out to be quite a technical nightmare to turn the lip and establish on the exit slab. And once you've turned the lip, you've still got 15 more feet of thin sketchyness to contend with. Thinking back, this problem throws a lot of monkey business at you and I'm pretty sure JJ sandbagged us with his favorite grade ... V7. Maybe this photosequence will help Rawhide see a few repeats.

midsummer dreams ...

Projects provide a unique mix of frustration and satisfaction. They are why many of us love climbing the way we do.

June 30, 2007 and July 4, 2007: Eliott Morris on Bierstadt, Mount Evans Wilderness Area, CO. Bierstadt is a boulder problem that most of us mortals need to work at. It requires patience, time and dedication to ascertain your beta, because it's technical and everyone seems to climb it a little differently. Although only about 10 moves long, no move is truly easy and a couple of those moves are low-percentage slaps and stabs. It is one of those great problems that never lets up and is "not over 'til it's over." In the first few photos (purple shirt), it was obvious Eliott had already put in some time on the problem. He had the lower section wired. He looked strong and it seemed he would send, but - in typical Bierstadt fashion - the top continued to frustrate him ... eventually wearing him out. Four days later (brown shirt), he dialed in his finishing sequence, but fell off the lip too many times to count. Two days later (no photos), he put it all together. w3rd.

ladies installment numero quatre