problems do not have grades ...

... until we try to give them one.

April 10, 2007: Andy Mann on Balance in Nature, Satellites, Flatirons, CO. Everybody seems to do this problem a little differently, ie: using any of several very bad left footholds or opting for a better foothold out left and an extra hand move or two, dynoing from lower and better feet because you are tall and have a nice wingspan, crimping the bad further left crimp because it positions you closer to the good high edge or going up and right using the flake in the dihedral. There is also the double undercling start that maybe adds a tensiony first move. If you've been on this problem, you know what I'm talking about. This problem is a perfect example why "hard and fast" guidebook grades are bunk and merely confuse the issue which is this: PURE BOULDER PROBLEMS ARE THE SHIT regardless how easy or difficult the line is. Very crisp temps on an April afternoon (sneel's birfday) were a perfect opportunity for Andy to finally put this problem away while having a couple beers ... and he did!!!!!!!11111!!! A few good warm-up goes - of course diverted for a few tries by the beta of others - and Andy sent using a nickle-width left foothold that my brain never even considered perching on for the dynamic move. Nice!

saving the hardest for last?!!!!!11???

A sending technique I'm unfamiliar with.

August 13, 2006: Justin Jaeger on Supernatural Ice, Skyland, Crested Butte, CO. After throwing himself at every problem we walked by for 2 days at Skyland (15+ hrs on Saturday starting at 4:30 AM and 9+ hours on Sunday), Justin agreed with us that we should DEFINITELY visit the small northwest zone of rock at Skyland before walking out. While the rest of us were wiped out and struggled to the top of moderate problems like The Hueco Problem, Justin set his sights on Supernatural Ice. Initially steep and powerful, then techy and sequential on perfect slopers and polished crimps, his effort was focused and resulted in an impressive end-of-the-trip send.

flashbacks and winter daydreams

Daydreaming about the lines you want to finish ... this keeps me motivated.

November 26, 2006: Bennett Scott on Pinhead, Ceremonies, Red Feather Lakes, CO. Long approaches into the wild with good friends to boulders sporting pure lines at all the grades. Here, Bennett makes faces at Pinhead until the problem succumbs to his will. This is a technique I must try on my next visit, which I hope will be soon as warmer temps are almost upon us. A really fun problem to try, but SOOOOOOOOOOO much harder than it looks at first glance.

Matt just nabbed his first FA ...

... be psyched for him.

April 1, 2007: Matt Miller on the FA of Little Foot, Dinosaur Mountain, Flatirons, CO. The line was obvious to me. As soon as I saw this overhanging boulder, I immediately gravitated to the starting holds, neither one of them very good, but together with what little footholds existed on the wall ... there should be enough to generate for the sidepull jug near the lip. Everyone else was psyched on other things on the wall, taller things with more moves and more consistent climbing, but Matt stayed close while I inspected the starting holds, scrubbed the sloping pinch oh so gingerly and then violently went to work on the somewhat chossy pocket, dislodging pebbles with every stroke. When every pebble inside the pocket that might dislodge had, and the topout had been scrubbed sufficiently, the problem was ready. While I struggled to sort out the first move, Matt did the first move really quickly. Sweet!!! In fact, he did it a couple of times ... before he managed the second move, a weird match inside the sidepull which you have to accomplish before you melt out of it. A cobrastrike to a good rail and two easy long pulls and Matt was the first one to top it out. Good work on the first of what I'm sure will be many FAs for you!!!

And oh yeah, all that damn time I spent up on the slab trying to get rid of dead branches and they're still in my fuckin' way. Damnit.