Monday, April 30, 2007

problems do not have grades ...

... until we try to give them one.
April 10, 2007: Andy Mann on Balance in Nature, Satellites, Flatirons, CO. Everybody seems to do this problem a little differently, ie: using any of several very bad left footholds or opting for a better foothold out left and an extra hand move or two, dynoing from lower and better feet because you are tall and have a nice wingspan, crimping the bad further left crimp because it positions you closer to the good high edge or going up and right using the flake in the dihedral. There is also the double undercling start that maybe adds a tensiony first move. If you've been on this problem, you know what I'm talking about. This problem is a perfect example why "hard and fast" guidebook grades are bunk and merely confuse the issue which is this: PURE BOULDER PROBLEMS ARE THE SHIT regardless how easy or difficult the line is. Very crisp temps on an April afternoon (sneel's birfday) were a perfect opportunity for Andy to finally put this problem away while having a couple beers ... and he did!!!!!!!11111!!! A few good warm-up goes - of course diverted for a few tries by the beta of others - and Andy sent using a nickle-width left foothold that my brain never even considered perching on for the dynamic move. Nice!

2 comments:

Dropknee said...

my method was merely the:

"i've been trying it this way for years so it is the way i'm sticking with Chip" excuse.

nice pics!

Matt said...

Nice send Andy! And some nice shots chipper!