Tuesday, June 19, 2007
whacked-out bizarro beta
April 14, 2007: Me on Born Defeated, the low sds into The Zoller Bulge, Bulge Boulder, East Skunk Canyon, Flatirons, CO. Because I win no battles based solely on strength or talent, I typically have to find most efficient and least-taxing sequence. For this one, the key is in the start. Begin sitting down, facing right, matched on a terrible crimp and a sidepull that don't seem good enough to do much of anything. Putting your right heel in the obvious heel-lock-of-doom out right seemed helpful but wasn't quite what I needed. On a whim, I tried the left heel ... EUREKA!!! The second move is a real doozy as well, with a wild campus crossover to the obvious jug in the photo, but no photo-beta is required to describe that madness. The rest of the problem is obvious, sliding slightly back to the right to matching sloper crimps, then straight out the high bulge directly above me.