Tuesday, November 06, 2007

still B3 ...

... these things take time.
November 5, 2007: Jamie Emerson on Trice, Cloudshadow Wall, Flagstaff Mountain, CO. His best day yet on Trice. He gave it 8-10 tries from the start after taking 2 days off. Temps started in the lower 40's and ended in the 30's, so it was perfect. Four of his 10 tries were really good goes. On three of them, his left foot excused itself prematurely as he reached for or tried to grab the edge. The other time it stayed ... but he came up JUST short (see above photo). He's pysched. He seems really psyched. Jamie then switched it up - going left hand into the shallow pocket - and nabbed what is thought to be the 3rd ascent of Jim Karn's AKR. Established in 1988, only Ben Moon is thought to have previously repeated it, doing so during his Colorado visit in the early 1990's. AKR took Jamie all of 30 minutes and he figures V11. We all know what's next. Stay tuned.

8 comments:

Peter Beal said...

Jamie's got a foot way up there-good beta, I've got to hand it to him. I did not think of that. I doubt that's how Holloway did it but for a taller person it makes a lot of sense. I'm fairly positive I could never reach that foot. Does that make it off-route? For me or Carlo, it will probably have to be.

Jamie Emerson said...

Peter, you can reach the foothold easily. You will noticed how scrunched I am in the photo.

Peter Beal said...

I will try it this way soon on your recommendation but only to prove I am too short (and possibly too weak). And you are not scrunched nearly enough to satisfy mid-level bloggers such as myself that the method is not height dependent/and or scrunchtastic.

Climbing Narcissist said...

is someone shooting video to go along with these still shots?

chuffer said...

believe it or not, he is trying Trice in the pitch black dark after work. last night he brought his lantern.

somebody feel free to bring up a lighting setup and a video camera.

Climbing Narcissist said...

if he holds off until next fall I might be able to be there to take footage

chuffer said...

narc - Based on JE and Carlo's current progress, I don't think it's going to take that long for the second ascent, but you never know.

The w3rd on the street is that another youngin' strongmo is interested in giving it some tries. We'll see.

Carlo Traversi said...

Interesting beta. I've thought about using that foot, but generally regarded it as off. Maybe all the talk about what is an acceptable way to repeat Trice has messed with my head. Seeing as I can easily accomplish a full lock off on the pocket, maybe this is the beta that will set the problem free for me. Thanks for the beta Jamie. And good luck. I'm bummed it will be a while before I get the chance to attempt the problem again, seeing as I've been very sick and I will be out of town for the next week or so. Peace Fools!