Wednesday, November 14, 2007
November 14, 2007: Jamie Emerson on Jim Holloway's Trice, Cloudshadow Wall, Flagstaff Mountain, CO. Very cool and inspiring evening and a nice way to start off your roadtrip JE!
A few thoughts: Both Jamie Emerson and Carlo Traversi topped it out last night under perfect conditions in the 4 o'clock hour. It was Carlo's 7th day on the problem and it was about Jamie's 10th. Both documented their sends with video and you can see them front and center at http://www.b3bouldering.com/ and http://www.climbingbum.blogspot.com/ right now. Impressive work was put in by P-Rob as well, who looked poised to send Trice on what I believe was his 2nd day on the problem, but just didn't quite stick the crux move amongst all the chaos going on around him. In addition, P-Rob did all but the uninspiring topout on AKR on his first try (dropping from the jug). Had you tried this before Paul, as that certainly would have been a nice flash? Both Carlo and Jamie used the high perching toe on Trice to make the crux reach to the bad crimp. For now, both rated it 8a+ (or V12 for those of you who refuse to become part of the http://www.8a.nu/ community or learn the Font System), but that's surely only under ideal conditions for folks who have spent some time learning the moves and how to properly grip the pocket, perch on the toe and snag the bad edge. Whatever the grade, it's been fun to witness a little of Colorado's history being rewritten and - from what I've been told - Jim is psyched that some folks are finding some merit in his historical testpieces. So ... there I was at Cloudshadow Wall when two people did Trice, another got close, CG rolled up with his dogs as the light was fading and Jim Holloway was on the phone to clarify the starting holds. All in all, a normal day in Boulder Colorado. Andy Mann will probably have some better pics up in the next few days at http://www.dropkneeclimbing.blogspot.com/, but I thought i would go ahead and put some of my thoughts out there.
And a couple more: Certainly not meaning to start anything, but as usual with historical lines with confusing histories about where they start, finish, climb, what's on and off, etc. ... there was a small issue as Carlo started on the LH sidepull + RH crimp next to it (as opposed to starting with your RH on the lower undercling). I just missed the send, but apparently he was late for something and had to cruise out of there in a hurry and I did not get a chance to ask him about it. The first move certainly isn't the crux, so in the end it probably doesn't matter anyway. Carlo has some interesting thoughts about his future plans up on his aforementioned blog. I do wonder if he'll come back to try Trice from the LH sidepull + RH undercling that Jim Holloway again informed us tonight he started on, or ... hell, start with a double undercling. I know we all climb for the fun of it and have our own motivations, but with a problem with a long and sorted history like Trice, I felt it was worth at least bringing up. Peace to all.