Thursday, August 02, 2007

stand-up versions of problems

What's all the fuss about?
August 29, 2004: Scott Hahn on The Hume Problem (stand), Mount Evans Wilderness Area, CO. Usually, problems are originally done from a stand-start, then harder sit-starts are added and people universally agree that there are 2 or more separate, albeit overlapping, problems. The Dali and The Hume Problem, however, were originally done from low sit-starts. As a result, some have reasoned that there is only one problem known as The Dali and The Hume Problem and they begin from a sit on the matched sloper (The Dali) and the undercling (The Hume Problem), respectively.
I understand this point of view, as it raises the question of when do you draw the line on higher starts? Still, I must disagree as long as folks who do the higher and easier starts are not misrepresenting what they did or did not do. In addition, the higher starts on The Dali and The Hume Problem are pretty obvious places to pull on. Most importantly, why should anyone worry at all about what others are doing at the boulders? In the end, issues like: (1) being friendly and respectful to other user groups and land managers; and (2) helping take care of and preserve our wild places seem so much more worthy of our attention and debate.

1 comment:

Dropknee said...

I recently thought about this upon reading some peoples' comments on "The Dali" at Mt.Evans..."there is no stand." and "the only and proper version."

I thought to myself, funny, i just did a proper stand!

I think it is all legit if your having fun. A beautiful line is just that, and even though you may be unable to climb the whole thing from the lowest holds, it is no reason to admit defeat to the rest of the line. To be defeated is not to try at all. I think it is awesome if you can take part in an experience regardless, and try to be open minded enough to see what you can do with what is there.

"The Dali" is a classic sds. "The Dali Stand Start" is a great, honest way for a moderate climber to take part in a very special problem. One that existed millions of years before it was ever climbed, from whichever holds.