I want you ...

... to show me the way.

November 18, 2007: Matthew Karasik on the presumed FA of Smokejumper, Sinus Block, Eldorado Canyon State Park, CO. We've been eyeing this one for years, looking for traces of chalk/cleaned holds and inspecting the topout. We've also asked almost everyone we can think of. Nope. Nope! Nope. NOPE!!! Well, Matty finally and properly cleaned the topout and last Sunday we had an appointment with this problem in perfect early morning conditions. It was initially frustrating determining the sequence, as we got sidetracked away from the proper beta again and again. Thanks for showing me the way Matty. Your beta was ALMOST perfect.

Trice B2+

B3 is overrated anyway.

November 14, 2007: Jamie Emerson on Jim Holloway's Trice, Cloudshadow Wall, Flagstaff Mountain, CO. Very cool and inspiring evening and a nice way to start off your roadtrip JE!

A few thoughts: Both Jamie Emerson and Carlo Traversi topped it out last night under perfect conditions in the 4 o'clock hour. It was Carlo's 7th day on the problem and it was about Jamie's 10th. Both documented their sends with video and you can see them front and center at http://www.b3bouldering.com/ and http://www.climbingbum.blogspot.com/ right now. Impressive work was put in by P-Rob as well, who looked poised to send Trice on what I believe was his 2nd day on the problem, but just didn't quite stick the crux move amongst all the chaos going on around him. In addition, P-Rob did all but the uninspiring topout on AKR on his first try (dropping from the jug). Had you tried this before Paul, as that certainly would have been a nice flash? Both Carlo and Jamie used the high perching toe on Trice to make the crux reach to the bad crimp. For now, both rated it 8a+ (or V12 for those of you who refuse to become part of the http://www.8a.nu/ community or learn the Font System), but that's surely only under ideal conditions for folks who have spent some time learning the moves and how to properly grip the pocket, perch on the toe and snag the bad edge. Whatever the grade, it's been fun to witness a little of Colorado's history being rewritten and - from what I've been told - Jim is psyched that some folks are finding some merit in his historical testpieces. So ... there I was at Cloudshadow Wall when two people did Trice, another got close, CG rolled up with his dogs as the light was fading and Jim Holloway was on the phone to clarify the starting holds. All in all, a normal day in Boulder Colorado. Andy Mann will probably have some better pics up in the next few days at http://www.dropkneeclimbing.blogspot.com/, but I thought i would go ahead and put some of my thoughts out there.

And a couple more: Certainly not meaning to start anything, but as usual with historical lines with confusing histories about where they start, finish, climb, what's on and off, etc. ... there was a small issue as Carlo started on the LH sidepull + RH crimp next to it (as opposed to starting with your RH on the lower undercling). I just missed the send, but apparently he was late for something and had to cruise out of there in a hurry and I did not get a chance to ask him about it. The first move certainly isn't the crux, so in the end it probably doesn't matter anyway. Carlo has some interesting thoughts about his future plans up on his aforementioned blog. I do wonder if he'll come back to try Trice from the LH sidepull + RH undercling that Jim Holloway again informed us tonight he started on, or ... hell, start with a double undercling. I know we all climb for the fun of it and have our own motivations, but with a problem with a long and sorted history like Trice, I felt it was worth at least bringing up. Peace to all.

to dyno or not to dyno ...

This is not a question.

March 25, 2007: Scott Neel and Alden Short on Sir Arthur's Lunge and "Sir Arthur's Gastons", Arthur's Rock, Lory State Park, CO. Not sure which way is easier or harder, but the static version avoids the 6.5' foot dyno via a long surf move from a good but slick gaston to a thin gaston in a seam and a bit of a bump to the top. Both ways are an interesting challenge worth trying on your way up to the classics.

long time comin'

The send and the overdue photosequence.

March 25, 2007: Justin Jaeger on Childbirth, Arthur's Rock, Lory State Park, CO. I was there the first time JJ looked at and briefly tried this problem in 2002. I'm pretty sure he'd been daydreaming about Childbirth ever since. To satiate those demons, we finally got back with the appropriate number of pads, nice temps and a psyched crew this past March. Four tries later, he was standing on top of a problem that sat near the top of his ticklist for close to 5 years. Noice jorb there sockhands! Sorry for the delay in this post JJ, but believe it or not it was very hard to narrow the photosequence down to 9 shots from the 40+ I took that day. On the other hand, I'm sure there are some uber-camera snobs out there who think I posted 9 shots too many. Oh well.

3rd ascent of A.K.R.

Trice's evil twin.

November 5, 2007: Jamie Emerson on A.K.R., Flagstaff Mountain, CO. Karn ... Moon ... Emerson. That's a pretty nice list to be on 19 years after the FA. Good on ya!!! Now let's get back up there and seal the rest of the deal. More soon.

still B3 ...

... these things take time.

November 5, 2007: Jamie Emerson on Trice, Cloudshadow Wall, Flagstaff Mountain, CO. His best day yet on Trice. He gave it 8-10 tries from the start after taking 2 days off. Temps started in the lower 40's and ended in the 30's, so it was perfect. Four of his 10 tries were really good goes. On three of them, his left foot excused itself prematurely as he reached for or tried to grab the edge. The other time it stayed ... but he came up JUST short (see above photo). He's pysched. He seems really psyched. Jamie then switched it up - going left hand into the shallow pocket - and nabbed what is thought to be the 3rd ascent of Jim Karn's AKR. Established in 1988, only Ben Moon is thought to have previously repeated it, doing so during his Colorado visit in the early 1990's. AKR took Jamie all of 30 minutes and he figures V11. We all know what's next. Stay tuned.

exacting revenge ...

... so sweet.

September 9, 2007: Me on Tendon Productions, Mount Evans Wilderness Area. This problem is one of the first you will come to when approaching the Aerials. I've had to live with the memory of flaming out at the topout 3 seasons ago, mostly because I was totally throttled from from the hike in. I remember JJ and I being infinitely psyched that day. It was no different a few weeks ago when Matty K and I made an end of the season trip and I was able to put this one away. Thanks for taking the photos Matty!!!

refining beta with help

Do not doubt the value of taking weight while working things out.

November 1, 2007: Jamie Emerson (with a little assistance from Angie) on Trice, Cloud Shadow Wall, Flagstaff Mountain, CO. Shortly after Jamie utilized Angie's weight-bearing services to help him efficiently refine his beta, I watched Jamie do all the moves on Trice, a problem that has sat unrepeated for 32 years. He has 2 1/2 weeks before he leaves on a 6 month roadtrip. He looks really fit and seems really motivated to do it, so everybody look the fuck out.

"ready to send"

Sometimes you just know OR a jedi mind trick?

October 30, 2007: Mike Feinberg on Divergence, 420's Boulders, Poudre Canyon, CO. My introduction to Mike Feinberg was serendipitous. For the umpteenth time, I couldn't locate the obscure problem Green Thumb which is somewhere back near Cloudwalker. Thus, I stumbled back to Divergence trying to come up with an alternative end-of-the-day plan. At this point - and with Pinto's moral support - Mike had refined his beta and I got to witness and shoot a relatively rare ascent of Divergence, a problem that has given many a Poudre regular fits for the 6 years that have elapsed since Solutions introduced us to the problem. NOTE: a useful foothold did break shortly after the filming, at least partially explaining the infrequency. Anyway, once Mike resigned himself to crossover to the gaston undercling and gave it a couple tries, he announced something like he was "ready to send." He then graciously waited for Pinto and I to grab our respective cameras and sent. I must try this "ready to send" approach. "Worked like a charm it did (Yoda-speak)."

P.S. By the way, where the hell is Green Thumb again? Anyone?