the one that got away

Most of us have our own Canopener.

Sometime in 2002 or 2003: Justin Jaeger on Canopener, Poudre Canyon, CO. He was sooooo close, sooooo many times in 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 ... Then he decided the risk to his left knee wasn't worth it and he's pretty much left alone since. I don't blame him. After tearing my LCL in June 2006, I can't even bear to watch folks utilize heel-toe locks or outside edge rockovers. He'll be along any minute now to tell us how Canopener is his favorite problem to explodimicate in his dreams and whatnot, but secretly, deep down, he waits ... Here's to everyone rededicating themselves and finally sending their own Canopener this winter.

going exploring

One of my favorite parts of the climbing experience.

April 22, 2007: Ken Gibson on Locked and Loaded, Lost Lake, Red Feather Lakes, CO. There is something to be said about not having any specific goals or even an itinerary for the day in our hectic fast-paced lives that are seemingly always packed full of tasks and to-do lists. RFL is a great place to go exploring. There are dozens if not a hundred square miles of virgin rock in and around Red Feather Lakes worthy of exploration. Pretty much walk far enough in any direction once you are in this zone of crags and rock-covered hillsides and valleys and you will find rock worth climbing. You never know what you'll find. We did not find a ton in this zone on this day, but the rock was "choice" and is definitely worthy of further exploration.

current highball project ...

... minus the rope.

October 11, 2007: Ashley Overton on the Northwest Face of Pumpkin Rock, Flagstaff Mountain, CO. It has been awhile since I've done it, but self-belaying yourself up a line that is just too tall to work from the ground up without a ton of pads is a useful way to find out if you are up for the challenge. In my experience, self-belaying usually adds 2 V grades. Thus, a line should feel much easier once you lose the rope ... provided you are mentally ready as well. I'm not sure why I'm gravitating towards this old aid and toprope route at this time, but my approach on this ~32 to 33 foot problem is pretty straightforward:

1. Inspect and clean it

2. Become familiar with all its useful holds and features

3. Climb it on self-belay, eliminating tangential sequences/moves

4. Start bouldering the first half ... REALLY suss it out

5. Fine tune beta on self-belay until entire sequence is wired

6. Boulder it out when ready BECAUSE it will be fun OR walk away

After spending one day last week exclusively on a fixed line, I jumped on it ropeless a few times yesterday. I cruised to the 20 foot mark without any issues ... but then downclimbed. A couple of insecure moves reside in those last 12-13 feet, so I think I need to spend at least one more day on a rope locking down my beta on the upper half in order to commit and actually enjoy the experience. I will report back soon.

boni amici

That's latin for "good friends."

July 22, 2007: Matt Karasik on the presumed FA of Boni Amici, Mount Evans, CO. I began eyeing this problem on my first walk through the Switchbacks, but nobody seemed all that interested, so I never stopped. I thought this problem remained unclimbed until this past summer. I'm not sure why it didn't get more traffic, as it looks good and climbs well and starts off the social trail. A few folks might have passed on it because it looks easier than it is. Surprisingly, it has no easy moves. Anyway, Matty K liked the look of it and I was happy to show it to him and have him get the presumed FA a session before me. Good jorb dood!

POSTSCRIPT

Per Jason Tarry, Matty's FA was a sds to an established stand-up problem put up by Jeremy Bisher ... K9 Love.