oft-photographed classics vol. I

This is one I have a love-hate relationship with.

October 22, 2006: Ted Lanzano on Kahuna Roof, Kahuna Boulder, Carter Lake, CO. Most believe Kahuna Roof is one the best problems in Colorado or at least one of the best problems for the grade. I was "close" (ha!!!) to finishing this back around the turn of the century, then the good crimp broke. It is now 2006, and although I have yet to finish this this stupid problem, I refuse to concede either. Anyway, in this photo sequence, Theodore was repeating Kahuna Roof for the first time in awhile. After smoothly exiting the roof onto the slab, he proceeded to get pumped ...
After scratching around on the slab for what seemed like forever trying lots of bogus crap, he began to downclimb and then jumped down. To this, a chorus of boos and hisses - followed by laughter - erupted. Of course, he sent it next go without a glitch.

long days and long approaches

Sometimes the goods are hidden far from the road.

February 4, 2006: That's me and KG on the home stretch of the approach to the Grey Rock Boulders up Poudre Canyon. Home to classics like Euphoric, Holy Aspen and a number of others, the ~3 mile hike up to this beautiful setting is well worth the effort. The pictured problems include an arete Gill probably clambered around upon, Euphoric and a short line we put up called Gravity Games.

who's gonna show?

Who knew Trogdor would try to crash my bachelor party? Fortunately, the Knight of Crested Butte kept him busy.

Crested Butte ... one of the best little towns in America. Superb world-class mountain biking, incredible skiing and riding that isn't overrun with frontrangers every day of the week, impeccable bouldering up on Mt. Crested Butte. The latter is what we came for.

tendon being tendon

... showing us that dynoing is fun (and easy).

November 26, 2006: Bennett Scott on Lunge For Fun (2-handed and 1-handed variations), The Ceremonies, Red Feather Lakes, CO. I tried this thing several times the night before. After blowing off the lip, hitting the Old Man in the hip with the bottom of my foot and knocking him off the ledge he was standing on to spot me, nobody was really the same again that night or the next morning. However, Tendon showed up and made this 6+ foot dyno (that skips all the intermediates) look sooooo ridiculously easy, doing the 2-handed and 1-handed variations at least twice for our amusement and photo documentation.

nemesis problems volume 1

You've gotten ridiculously close ... you've got to keep trying right?

May 6, 2006: Justin Jaeger on Merlin, Merlin Boulder, Poudre Canyon, CO. I did manage to do the stand-up start one time a few years ago, but I still haven't linked it from the sit. For me, the low start is a patience-testing power sequence that utilizing deceptively decent handholds that I have to get just right and the most MINISCULE imperfections as footholds. One would think this problem suits my style, but I've been repeatedly denied. Maybe this winter.

on being the best

A problem everybody HAS TO DO.

August 13, 2006: Andy Mann on Right El Skyland, High Times Boulder, Skyland Boulders, CO. Does V2 get any better? The setting is ridiculous ... well-featured large granite boulders plopped down in a flat zone within a thick aspen forest up on Mount Crested Butte overlooking one of the best little towns in America. The holds are incut and plentiful, but spaced just enough to require some effort on big moves between big holds. The problem overhangs slightly for 20 feet, gets harder as you approach the top, yet it's not TOO scary up there. This problem has got to be the best V2 in Colorado and is a candidate for the Best V2 in America.

poker anyone?

Get your money in with the best hand(s). IOW, try the hardest stuff on day one of the trip.

May 28, 2004: Justin Jaeger on Ante Up, Black Jackpot Boulders, Old Baldy, SD. At the beginning of a long weekend spent at boulders all over the Black Hills, JJ threw himself at this problem for an hour (probably more) trying all kinds of sequences before it all came together and he was able to link it. In the meantime, I spied Slopey Stylee cleaned it and readied it for the FA. Great 4 day weekend.

variations4lyfe ...

Sometimes you've got to do more than one.

November 24, 2005: Me on Circus Trick Left, Big Bend Boulders, UT. Perfect rock, perfect holds, perfect moves. Although I'm usually not a big fan of variations and we saw lots more we wanted to try that day, the problems on this arete are too F-U-N to not try them all. We literally spent 3 or 4 hours on the different variations the Circus Trick problems offer.

the elements

Whether it's rain, snow, sleet, hail, heat, wind, dust, etc., sometimes you need to take shelter.

October 28, 2006: Ashley Overton on Undercling, Spice Roof Area, Carter Lake, CO. This problem is located in a great little sheltered alcove for warming up. Notice how James has a foot on all 3 Misty pads down below. If James stepped off the pads, they took off like kites. The winds were howling at 50+ mph EASY. We were getting totally blasted. Fortunately, the wind calmed down and people sent some of their projects and most went home happy.

pay attention fools

... or I'll send some of my new friends to pay you a visit.

September 24, 2006: Buckhorn Wash, San Raphael Swell, UT. On the shortcut road to/from Joe's Valley, these pictographs are right by the road. There are also boulders everywhere in the Swell. One drive down this shortcut road during daylight and you will want to do some exploring.

that's all closed ...

... or NOT.

October 2, 2004: Justin Jaeger on Deathco Nation, Cloud 9, Eldorado Canyon State Park, CO. This line and the line to the right, Jeffco Nation, beg the boulderer to climb them. Same topout far above the dirt at a jug, but thin just before it. If you like hard approaches, Cloud Nine is the place for you. About 90 minutes - most of it up steep hillsides - the hike in and out make for a long day by themselves. The boulders are spread out a bit too. Nice stone, nice setting and you will not see a single soul all day long.

new or not-so-new?

Sometimes that is the question.

September 9, 2006: Scott Neel on Rioja, Avs Wall, Dinosaur Mountain, Flatirons. Some of the things we've "discovered" up there are merely problems put up by others including Holloway and Horan that we are rediscovering, but some are certainly new. Although there is a variety of easier and harder problems up there, there is a nice concentration of problems in the V4-V8 range if that's what you're looking for.

Ticknor got married a few days ago ...

... so we should revisit an old photo of him actually rock climbing.

February 20, 2004: Christopher Ticknor on Woman With a Hueco in Her Head, Mushroom Boulder, Hueco Tanks, TX. A couple days later on Better Eat Your Wheaties, Ticknor suffered what at the time seemed like a catastrauphic injury to his middle finger extensor tendon/pulleys that made everyone in the area cringe. It is NOT GOOD when your finger goes POP-POP-POP-POP-POP and EVERYONE can hear it. Sickeningly illgnar ... Anyway, he climbed again many months later and quite well mind you although WAY too often on a rope. He apparently hasn't done much climbing during his post-doc in Australia this year (WTF!?!), but I believe he got married in Florida recently so we'll have to let it slide. Congrats Ticknor!

THE man ... you know who

This problem was put up in/about 1961 by every boulderer's godfather, John Gill.

August 31, 2003: Brian Gulbransen on Center Yellow Wall, Campground Boulder, Sylvan Lake, Custer State Park, SD. This was my first day of bouldering in the Black Hills. Brian pointed out a few of the classics at Sylvan Lake on this day and showed me around the Rock Maze a couple days later. This began a 3 year love affair with everything that is The Black Hills culminating with my marriage in Spearfish Canyon on September 3, 2006. As always, John Gill's problems here would be obvious classics ANYWHERE.

Turkeyday 2005

It took me 16 years of trips to Moab to finally go bouldering there. What was I thinking?

November 24, 2005: Adrein Roberts on Washed Up, Big Bend Boulders, UT. Perfect final warmup on a perfect day with perfect temps in a surreal place. Usually, I hit the Millenium Boulder on Thanksgiving morning, but Big Bend was an upgrade. We were on our way to Ibex for remainder of the weekend, but this place was awesome for a day. Nobody did anything terribly hard, but we had fun just the same and ate - of all things - chinese food in Moab for Thanksgiving before driving to Ibex.

the Woo Woo Woo!!!

A lot of sharp choss with pure brilliance sprinkled in here and there. This problem is an example of the latter.

October 1, 2005: Me on Sun Up to Sun Down, Nautilus Area, Vedauwoo, WY. A lot of people chucked a lap on this jewel at the Vedauwoo Bouldering Festival that day. The 10+ crashpads below gave me the confidence to jump into the fray. At this point, the difficulties are technically over, but these moves are very disturbing and keep some people from finishing. Keep that RH undercling, LF step through to the small smear edge on the lip of wall where the RF currently is, stay tight, twist and reach LH a long way to a hold in the crack just right and below the vegetation ... total sketchfest. Thanks for taking the photo Ken!

the obscurity and serenity of RFL

Drive down road, see boulders, park, walk to boulders, climb something if it looks good, repeat.

June 18, 2006: Ken Gibson on Sidewinder, near the Capitols, Red Feather Lakes, CO. What a place ... not only will you not see anyone out at the boulders, you'll see very few souls even out on the roads. This problem is located a couple/few miles before you get to the Capitols on the right ride of the road about 100 yards from the road. That's the best I can do with directions around RFL.